Saturday, December 19, 2009

Airbag Reset Procedure

Another post for future reference. These new fangled cars have all these complex sensors and warning lights just waiting to make one's life safer, but potentially more of a hassle.

If you ever unplug the airbag harness on the 350Z seats while the car is on, the airbag light on the dashboard will start flashing. Once you have plugged the harness (or a 2.2 ohm 0.25W resistor) back in, a procedure must be performed to reset the airbag (SRS) system and make the airbag light stop flashing. I found instructions on the 350Z-tech forum and have modified them according to what worked for me.

The procedure consists of two parts:
  1. Change the SRS system to Self-Diagnosis Mode.
  2. Change the SRS system back to User Mode.

How to change to Self-Diagnosis Mode:
  1. Turn the ignition switch from OFF to ON.
  2. Within 1 second of the airbag warning lamp starting to flash, turn OFF the ignition switch.
  3. Wait for more than 3 seconds.
  4. Repeat steps 1 to 3 twice. (Perform 3 times in total)
  5. Turn the ignition switch ON again and the dash should be in Self-Diagnosis Mode, signified by the airbag warning lamp flashing at a slower rate than it did in User Mode.
  6. Turn the ignition switch OFF.

How to change to User Mode:
  1. Turn the ignition switch from OFF to ON.
  2. Within 1 second of the airbag warning lamp starting to flash, turn OFF the ignition switch.
  3. Wait for more than 3 seconds.
  4. Repeat steps 1 to 3 twice. (Perform 3 times in total)
  5. Turn the ignition switch ON again and the dash should be in User Mode. After the initial checks, the airbag warning lamp should turn off and no longer flash.


Defi Oil Temperature Gauge Wiring

This is for future reference. The wiring is for a 2006 Nissan 350Z and the gauge has been connected to the unified meter and air conditioner amplifier (UM AC amp) located underneath the stereo head unit.

The gauge has 4 wires to be connected:

Orange - To 12V wire when ignition on
Red - To 12V battery wire
White - To 12V wire when small lamp (parkers) on
Black - To ground or negative battery terminal

The UM AC amp has 3 harnesses on the back. The following image shows the pin layout and the wires the gauge is connected to.

Orange gauge wire >>> Wire 46 (Blue/White)
Red gauge wire >>> Wire 21 (Red/White)
Black gauge wire >>> Wire 29 (Black)
The white gauge wire is not currently connected.

Wednesday, December 2, 2009

Further Oil Cooler Testing

To get some oil temperature readings without the aid of the oil cooler, I covered the cooler core with a piece of cardboard. This is not as accurate as getting readings without the cooler installed at all, but it provides a general idea of before and after temperatures.

Looks like the cooler is doing its job.

Saturday, November 21, 2009

Defi Oil Temperature Gauge Installation

With the help of Kam80, this was installed. I cannot stress enough how immensely grateful I am for his help. The installation was stressful for a noob like me as the uncertainty of whether it would work got to me, but Kam's stoic resolve pulled me through.

The temperature sensor is fixed to the oil cooler sandwich plate. Wiring for the gauge is attached to the aircon control harness. Today, I tidied up the wiring inside the cabin - got a couple of 3M Command wire holders and matte blacked them.

See here for the wiring instructions:

Results so far with oil cooler
Air temperature: 25º C or below
Stop/start on roads 80kph or less: 79-82º C
Freeway: ~75º C

Air temperature: 25-30º C
Stop/start on roads 80kph or less: ~85º C
Freeway: ~80º C

The next step is to test with the oil cooler core covered on the street and then some on-track temperature readings.

Sunday, November 15, 2009

Trust/Greddy Oil Cooler Installation

With the impending hot weather and upcoming December track day, I thought I would get an oil cooler. So last week, this arrived:

The sandwich plate contains a thermostat which I believe opens between 71 and 85 degrees Celsius +/- 2 degrees.

With the help of Kam80 and c2888, installation was fairly simple:

1. Take the front bumper off.
2. Mount the cooler core in place.
3. Fit the oil filter sandwich plate.
4. Connect and tighten hoses.

One small hiccup - As my Japanese literacy is non-existent, I didn't see that I was required to use an oil filter for a 1JZ/2JZ. As a result, my OEM filter did not screw on as the sandwich plate thread pattern was different. Luckily, c2888 had a spare Corolla filter that fit - that will do for now.

Big thanks must go to Kam providing a heap of help and taking photos during this stinking hot installation, and Dan for his technical know-how.

Saturday, November 14, 2009

Skidpan Training

This was my second time on a skidpan but my first with formal training from an instructor. It was another great opportunity to test out the behaviour of the car at its limit of traction. The time with the instructor was very valuable as it helped to further solidify the concepts required to be understood in order to hold the car in a slide.

What I learnt:
  1. After initiating the slide, maintaining it consists of counter steering and throttle application, and these two concepts work in tandem.
  2. Applying throttle further breaks traction at the rear tyres and swings the rear of the car out.
  3. Lifting off throttle allows the tyres to regain traction.
  4. After counter steering, it is a matter of holding the steering in that direction and modulating throttle between grip and wheel spin. Steering should be minimal as the direction of the car should be controlled through the rear swinging out and being pull back in.
Here are some highlights from my time on the skid pan thanks to Shaun.

Tuesday, November 10, 2009

JB Hi-Fi Nunawading

Everyone has had a bad experience with a retailer at some point or another, this might include poor service, rude staff, lackluster communication and much more. I thought I would share my recent experience in the hope that it might benefit someone.

Sony Australia are running a promotion at the moment where they are giving away 25,000 Playstation 3 (PS3) consoles with the purchase of a qualifying Sony Bravia LCD television. In order to obtain a PS3, you must:Purchase one of the applicable Bravia LCD TV models.
  1. Purchase one of the applicable Bravia LCD TV models.
  2. Make a claim with Sony for a PS3 within 14 days of purchasing the TV and before the stock (25,000) runs out.
  3. Submit relevant paperwork to Sony within 14 days of making the claim:
  • Printout of claim
  • Original proof of purchase for the TV
  • Photo of the serial number on the back of the TV
Series of events
Sunday 1st November 2009 - I visited JB Hi-Fi in Nunawading (Vic) after seeing their advertisement online for the Bravia TV I wanted. After some negotiation with the sales person, we agreed on a price that included delivery to my home and so I said I wanted to buy the TV. It was at this point that the sales person told me that they were expecting stock of the TV on Friday the 30th of October, but it had not arrived. He then said that stock should arrive by Wednesday the 4th (as Tuesday the 3rd was a public holiday), and it would be in by Friday the 6th at the latest. I was also told that I would be contacted as soon as the TV came in. So, with the expectation that I would be taken care of by a fairly reputable retailer, I paid for the TV. This was a mistake.

Wednesday 4th November 2009 - I had received no phone call about the TV arriving, this was fine. I thought I would be call JB Hi-Fi to check just in case as I was concerned that I needed to submit my paperwork to Sony. I was transferred to a guy in the stock room. When I asked about the TV, the guy said that he it had not arrived and that he had my phone number and he would call me as soon as it came in. Then I asked whether he had an estimated time/day when the TV would arrive as I needed to complete my PS3 claim. At this point, the guy gave me attitude and said that other retailers are experiencing delays with Sony as well and he couldn't promise me when the TV would arrive.

Friday 6th November 2009 - Still no phone call from JB Hi-Fi. To be fair, the sales person did say the TV would be at the shop by Friday at the latest, however I was unhappy about the treatment I had received from the stock room guy. At the end of the day, I went to the store and demanded a refund for the TV. Surprise surprise, the sales person said the TV had just arrived and he was meaning to call me. He offered to deliver the TV the next day (Saturday), but I picked it up straight away as it fit in our car. A refund for the delivery cost was also given.

The issue I have in this situation is with JB Hi-Fi Nunawading's treatment of me as the customer. There was poor communication and a lack of commitment to ensure that I knew the TV had arrived. The sales person was also very insincere in the apologies made. The lesson I have learned is to never buy something if there's no stock available. So, beware of JB Hi-Fi Nunawading. Thanks for reading.

Saturday, October 31, 2009

Board breaking 14 Oct 2009

A video of my board breaking at my Cho Dan Bo grading.

Saturday, October 17, 2009

Bride Holding Monster strikes again

I picked up one of these today - Bride Stradia with low cushion.

1. Unplug seat belt buckle sensor plug from factory seat.
2. Unplug air bag plug from factory seat.
3. Unplug third plug (I can't be bothered looking up what it's for) from factory seat.
4. Remove factory seat.
5. Plug in 2.2 ohm resistor into air bag plug connector in car.
6. Remove seat belt buckle from factory seat.
7. Attach seat belt buckle to Bride seat.
8. Bolt in Bride seat to car.
9. Reconnect seat belt buckle sensor plug.

No DIY is a success without the obligatory fail, quite the paradox. In my haste and glee that I had completed step 5 and that it worked, I had forgotten steps 6 and 7 and proceeded straight to 8. As all good fails would have it, I did not realise I had failed until I had completed step 8. But alas, patience is a virtue and I reversed step 8 and did not attempt to rush it by completing step 7 with the seat bolted in.

A big thanks to Dan (c2888) for his electronics expertise and Kam80 for the online assist when I was picking these seats up.

Tuesday, October 13, 2009

MGCC Sprints - Sandown Motor Circuit - Further analysis

Here's a comparison of Kam's speed graph and mine. Kam also drives a 350Z and I can see where I can improve.

- Turn 1 - I'm slowing down too much
- Turn 1 - I'm not getting on gas early enough
- Turn 4 - As above
- Kam carries almost 10 kph more through the sweeper/chicane
- Turn 8 - I'm not getting on gas early enough
- Turn 11 (coming on the front straight) - I get on gas earlier than Kam, but Kam has some crazy (almost vertical) acceleration. I'm thinking my gear change from 2nd to 3rd was a bit slow there.

Sunday, October 11, 2009

MG Car Club Sprints - Sandown Motor Circuit

This day comprised of a drag and sprint component. Each competitor had two drag runs, one on each straight of the circuit.

Best run (according to RaceChrono):
60 feet - 2.43 s
1/4 mile - 14.49 s @ 157.1 kph
0-100 kph - 7.19 s

Tyre pressures that worked for me: Front - 34 PSI hot, Rear - 33 PSI hot.
Tyres: Dunlop D03G/D02G
- First time trying Ferodo DS2500 at the front, they held up very nicely.
- Also got some titanium shims for the front, brake pedal still felt spongy after each session though.

Session 1

Session 2
1:33.1700 <- VMax 197 kph Session 3

Session 4
1:31.6100 NEW PB

Full results:

Comparison of my previous PB to the new one:

High/low speeds for PB lap:

Thank you:
- Kam for technique consultation
- Dave for chasing me and applying the pressure for PB
- Shaun for the lunch run and support
- Drew, Anja, Jason and Ray for taking photos and support
- Dan and Ying for the Porta-Gazebo
- The rest of the crew who competed or came to support

Monday, August 31, 2009

Taekwondo (WTF) Poomsae

This post is intended more so as a point of reference for myself, but hopefully having all these videos in the one place helps others.

Taeguk 1

Taeguk 2

Taeguk 3

Taeguk 4

Taeguk 5

Taeguk 6

Taeguk 7

Taeguk 8










Wednesday, August 26, 2009

Patience is a virtue

OK, let me set up the situation for you.
  • Today, I was waiting at a roundabout to turn right into a petrol station.
  • There was a queue of cars lined up all the way to the entrance of the petrol station.
  • There was a white car waiting in the roundabout to enter the petrol station.
So, not wanting to block any other traffic that may want to pass through the roundabout, I chose not to enter the roundabout. That would only result in me stuck behind the white car, congesting the roundabout.

The queue of cars wasn't moving, so I continued to wait without entering the roundabout. Then, the impatient fucker behind me in a Holden Astra started honking his/her horn because he/she wanted to go straight through the roundabout. Once again, I reiterate that me entering the roundabout would have resulted in my car being stuck behind the white car and it would still block the idiot in the Astra from exiting the roundabout.

After about 30 seconds, the queue of cars started to move and the white car entered the petrol station. I was then able to move to where the white car was previously in the roundabout and the idiot went on his way. Was it that much of a loss in time in their life that they needed to honk at me? What would that achieve? Would that idiot be satisfied if he/she was able to drive into the roundabout only to be stuck behind me again?

Use your grey matter and stop being idiots people!

Saturday, August 15, 2009

Oz Mazda Track Day - Wakefield Park

First of all, a big thank you to Darrin, Mick and Dan of Oz Mazda for putting on a great day. The organization and flow of the day was top notch and we got our fill of track time. This year's pilgrimage to Wakefield surely did not disappoint - the weather was practically perfect and the variety of cars and drivers provided much entertainment.

My goal for the day was to sort out my sway bar setup and as always improve on my PB. At the previous track day, I had the front bar set to soft and rear also to soft, a setup I found too tail-happy for my liking. So for Wakefield, I had set the front to hard and left the rear on soft. If there was too much understeer, I would then set the rear to medium. What I found was that I didn't have the change the settings throughout the day, the front hard/rear soft combo worked for me. The car still had a hint of oversteer (more than stock) and yet was easily manageable by an amateur like me.

With that sorted, I then set out to get my Wakefield technique back and attempted to beat my PB. I managed to improve on my previous PB by 0.05 seconds in the morning and then another 0.03 seconds early in the afternoon, ending on a new PB of 1:12.49. This was such a marginal improvement but I was happy that I can still match my PB.

My timed laps (not including passenger sessions):



1:12.4970 *NEW PB*

Full results:

Thinking back over my sessions, these are the main things I can improve upon at Wakefield:

- There is time to be gained at the first corner after the kink as I'm not using the full width of the track on exit.
- I might be braking too much at the top of the hill.
- On the back straight, I am topping out in 3rd and riding the limiter for some time before the 100m marker where I generally start braking. Short shifting to 4th earlier in the straight might help.

Photo credits:
- Kam80/Anja
- sktiz (Oz Mazda)
- silver6 (Oz Mazda)

Video from CelicaJim's car as he was chasing me, couldn't shake him:

Wednesday, August 5, 2009

Nismo 350Z Accelerator Pedal

Just a minor update: I installed an accelerator pedal from the 2007 Nismo 350Z.

This is the pedal that should have come standard in the 350Z since the model was introduced. The shape is nothing new, this pedal came standard in at least the R34 GT-R V-Spec albeit in rubber.


Same car, two occasions

Wednesday, July 22, 2009

Let Me Google That For You

I have been using this for some time now, but just in case you don't know, there's this page called Let Me Google That For You (

LMGTFY is "for all those people that find it more convenient to bother you with their question rather than google it for themselves."

As an example, imagine someone in your workplace is annoying you with questions such as "how do I copy this file?" Go to and type "how do I copy this file?" into the text field and then click the Google Search button. It will then generate a URL that you can send to that annoying person. When they click on the link, they will be presented with an animation of what it would be like had they typed the query into Google themselves. Try clicking the above link and see for yourself.

I like how LMGTFY has been dubbed the passive-aggressive way to tell someone to f*ck off and have experienced great success with it.

Another interesting sub-site of LMGTFY is the "live" version - This lets you see what others are querying at LMGTFY - amusing, fascinating and disturbing at the same time.

Sunday, July 5, 2009

Fujitsubo Legalis-R Exhaust Installation

First and foremost, let me thank the following people who were instrumental in the success of this DIY effort (in no particular order):

- SenK9
- Mugsee
- c2888

Without the help of your lateral thinking, logic, knowledge and strength, this would have taken much longer than it already did. Also thanks to Jally for being the delivery driver, wokstar for taking some photos, and KRNAGE, Eiji, Kathy, Kam80 and Anja for the company.

Now, on to the business. I picked up the exhaust yesterday morning and was pleased to see that it is a nicely manufactured product. The welds are clean and careful and the fitment is essentially a 100% match to OEM, except for only a tiny hitch (which I'll explain further down). You can tell that attention to detail is high when it comes to the construction of this exhaust, which is not surprising considering that Fujitsubo manufacture exhausts for Nismo and their exhausts are also offered as a factory option in Japan.


Installation was fairly straight forward, it was a bolt-off bolt-on affair. There was a lot of time spent in the bolt-off part when we almost rounded off a nut. Mugsee and I spent almost 2 hours trying to loosen a nut between the front and mid pipes that had seemingly fused itself to the flange. SenK9 finally loosened the nut with some Selley's RP-7 and a strong arm.

After the new exhaust was attached, I noticed that there was a small gap between the bottom of the flanges on the front and mid pipes. The supplied gasket was not thick enough to fill that gap. c2888 confirmed that there was a leak there after I started the car and water (from condensation) started dripping out the gap, this was the tiny hitch I mentioned before. Being the pedantic person that I am, I asked HSVNME to drive me to Repco and he kindly obliged. There, we bought some Loctite Copper Maxx gasket goo. After returning and applying the goo around the flange, the gap seemed filled and I tightened all the nuts.




Odd spot:
Here is some Nissan engineering fail. In the last 2.5 years that I've had this car, the foam between the rear bumper and reinforcement bar had melted from the heat of the muffler. The two tabs at the bottom of the bumper that are normally attached to the reinforcement bar have also been snapped for a long time. After the OEM muffler was removed, I took the opportunity to remove those two tabs, which were just attached to the reinforcement bar and connected to nothing. Also note that the heat from the muffler has melted and fused one of the plastic clips holding the tab to another plastic bracket.

Initial impressions are that the Fujitsubo is not much louder than stock, only providing a deeper growl at low to mid RPMs, elevating to a slight rasp at high RPMs. This is ideal for me as the subtle difference is not intrusive at all. All I hope for is that the car's power and acceleration is improved.